1995 Running... or not

[Miatamadman]

So after a complete timing belt job on the 1995 PEP. I start the car and it runs fine. Set timing to a modest 12 deg adv. Idle set to about 900 RPM

Before the timing change... the cluster would show the tach at 0 when the car was running, sometimes had to hit the gauge and it would work just fine.

After the timing belt change, I drove the car to work and the tach would mysterisouly change RPMs I have a video of it at 70 MPH going all the tay to 8000 rpm and bouncing from 4 to 8 like a Monster on 50psi turbo boost.

I came to a stop light, car running fine, tach jumping, light turns green and stall. Start car and it starts shaking like its choking and tach reading less than 500 rpm... and then stalls again... I popped the clutch to get it running one more time, to pull over and then it wont run at all, after it quit.

The car starts fine, but immediately stalls. Brainstorming leads to timing belt jumping a few teeth, but until I get the car back from the place of rest in Gambrills, I need things to check.

Ideas?

Thanks!

[prostwest]

I googled to confirm my instinct that the CAS controls the tach. Found this thread: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=370865

Since your issue surfaced in conjunction with TB job, I'd check first for damage to CAS leads or connector from taking cam cover off, etc.

[Miatamadman]

Thanks Steve. I am going to tow the car back to my house tomorrow afternoon (with Mikes help)

Additionally, I found an article from that thread to how the coil pack overheating... might be the cause of the large heat build up in the motor after it was running before it died.

[Miatamadman]

Maybe this is the culprit...

[mistanfo]

Not likely, but I've also seen similar things happen when a battery starts to die. Check the voltage if you can, both when the car is off, running at idle, and running at normal operating RPMs.

[bill_keksz]

What in the pic indicates a problem?

[Miatamadman]

What in the pic indicates a problem?

I am thinking the giant crack on the back of the coil.

After replacement (250 bucks, ouch) and a lot of swearing (1.8s are harder to work on than 1.6s IMO) I got the new one in and connected. Car starts up, but still has a rough idle and odd sucking sound from the throttle body.

Hoping Jason and Christian can stop over during the weekend and take a peak... I could just be paranoid, but since the last time I dismissed something to paranoia, I found myself with a dead 95 off Rt 3.

Timing appears to be good, not sure, will test again to re-verify

[makijo]

What in the pic indicates a problem?

I am thinking the giant crack on the back of the coil.

After replacement (250 bucks, ouch) and a lot of swearing (1.8s are harder to work on than 1.6s IMO) I got the new one in and connected. Car starts up, but still has a rough idle and odd sucking sound from the throttle body.

Hoping Jason and Christian can stop over during the weekend and take a peak... I could just be paranoid, but since the last time I dismissed something to paranoia, I found myself with a dead 95 off Rt 3.

Timing appears to be good, not sure, will test again to re-verify

Did you check all the hoses on the front of the TB, remember I took the tube off and may not have put everything back together??

[bill_keksz]

Not seeing a crack.

[makijo]

Not seeing a crack.

kgfdlfkgfdk.jpg (97.47 KiB) Viewed 118 times

[ChristianL]

Hoping Jason and Christian can stop over during the weekend and take a peak...

Yep - we'll be by at some point on Saturday.

[bill_keksz]

In the pic, it looks more like a line of deposited & baked-on material.

[blueman23]

I had similar symptoms when I had forgotten to connect the vacuum line on the air intake tube that is just in front of the throttle body. Check all vacuum lines.